Saturday, September 15, 2012

Roma in Cathar country? Networks for Sustenance: France


In contrast to the wealth reported for some Romanian Roma in Buzescu, who call themselves not Roma but Gypsies or Tsigani, see National Geographic Magazine, September 2012, at 128ff, others could use whatever sustenance assistance for themselves and their animals as are consistent with autonomy and pride. 


In France recently, for example, we noted a family at the ticket booth of a known but run-down Cathar castle, Puivert, with living quarters behind.  A child, father in the booth collecting the Euro, then a woman walking up the hill, heavy-laden.  To an outsider's eye, the context would be consistent with Roma.  Small carts were nearby, and several thin horses sought some shade in the castle wall.


Castle yard, Puivert Chateau.  Jousting exhibition course.


The heat was driving.  Few tourists were there, as the parking is a distance down the hill, but manageable. 

This chateau is overshadowed by the glitz and money at nearby Chalabre:  a commercial venture that we could not even enter because it did not open until noon.  But, from our research and walking around, there is little contemplative there, see http://www.easyvoyage.co.uk/france/chalabre-castle-4925.  Chalabre is a theme park in itself, activities, carefully winnowed education included in the tourist bits that glorify crusaders.  This goes on apparently without analysis of cause, means, issues of a military-political church, disconnected from the principles of its Founder, an institution killing off the opposition. The Albigensian Crusade was more and worse than another adventure in history, where some won, some lost. We all lost with the Albigensians, who were Christian, and fostered tolerance and egality.  Leave each to his or her own beliefs and practices, as we understand it.

 See Chalabre among other exploited Cathar castles at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoOs0IckkxM/.

Point here:  We found a family working to make a living, horses in need of more feed than they can find, a castle that offers more in authenticity and imagination than Chalabre. See Puivert at http://www.catharcastles.info/puivert.php?key=puivert.  How to focus assistance with dignity, if they want it.  Perhaps I misread.
 

Friday, September 7, 2012

Sara La Kali. Church of the Three Marys. Saintes Maries de la Mer. France.

The Three Marys.
The Church of the Three Marys.
Saintes Maries de la Mer, France.  The Camargue.




Usually we take time to post photographs of our wonder-filled trips to Europe, sagas of rental cars, no reservations, maps and guidebooks.  This time, however, the Sara la Kali we found in the South of France, the Camargue, at Saintes Maries de la Mer, will not wait. She changes with the season.  Here she is, in the crypt area of the Church, in August, far from the crowds of the May pilgrimages.  We had full access for leisurely thought. We wanted to show the full reverential setting.  See http://www.bonjourparis.com/story/camargue-saintes-maries-de-la-mer-gypsy-festival-m/

The church itself  echoes the theme of threes:  an older building reinforced to serve as a fortress against the Moors years ago.

Saintes Maries de la Mar, Camargue, France


More to follow on the town, the small hotel that had room for us in their inn, to come. Why should someone with no known connection to Roma take such an interest.  Kinship does not require demonstrable kin.